Apparel brand Lululemon has invested in UK-based startup Epoch Biodesign, which is developing an enzyme-driven process to break down synthetic textile waste into reusable raw materials.
The investment forms part of a $12 million funding round, alongside venture firms including Extantia, Happiness Capital, Kompas VC, and Leitmotif, signaling growing interest in alternative recycling technologies as the textile industry seeks scalable solutions to plastic waste.
Enzyme Technology Targets Synthetic Textile Waste
Epoch Biodesign’s approach focuses on converting pre- and post-consumer plastic-based textiles into monomers—the fundamental building blocks of plastics. Using a cascade of enzyme treatments, the company claims it can recover over 90% of usable material, leaving behind primarily dyes, which can be handled separately.
Unlike traditional biological processes that rely on live microorganisms, Epoch utilizes isolated enzymes, aiming to improve process stability and scalability. The enzymes themselves are sourced from industrial suppliers already producing them at scale.
The company’s founder and CEO, Jacob Nathan, positions textile waste as a future feedstock alternative to fossil-based inputs. “For us, a bale of textile is the equivalent of a barrel of oil,” he noted, highlighting the potential to decouple material production from volatile petroleum markets.
Focus on Nylon 6,6 Recycling
The technology is initially being applied to nylon 6,6, a high-performance synthetic fiber widely used in apparel, automotive components, carpets, and industrial applications. Despite its durability and functional advantages, nylon 6,6 has historically been difficult to recycle at scale.
Epoch’s process aims to address this challenge by recovering monomers that can be reused to produce new materials with properties comparable to virgin polymers.
Market Timing and Cost Volatility
The development comes at a time of increasing volatility in raw material markets. According to the company, prices for nylon precursors have recently surged by up to 150%, underscoring the potential value of alternative feedstock sources.
By relying on waste textiles rather than fossil-derived inputs, the company aims to offer greater price stability while reducing environmental impact.
Path Toward Commercial Scale
The newly secured funding will support the construction of a demonstration-scale facility near Imperial College London, with plans to develop a full commercial plant by 2028. The future facility is expected to reach a production capacity of approximately 20,000 metric tons of monomers per year.
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While the current focus remains on nylon 6,6, the company indicates that its enzyme-based platform could be adapted to other types of plastics in the future.
Industry Perspective: Promise and Challenges
The investment reflects a broader shift within the textile and apparel sector toward next-generation recycling technologies, particularly those capable of addressing mixed and hard-to-recycle materials.
However, as with many emerging solutions, questions remain around scalability, cost competitiveness, and industrial integration. Moving from laboratory success to consistent, large-scale production remains one of the key hurdles for enzyme-based recycling technologies.
A Step Toward Circular Materials?
Epoch Biodesign’s approach highlights the growing convergence of biotechnology and materials science in addressing textile waste. With strong backing from both investors and industry players like Lululemon, the company represents a new wave of innovation aiming to redefine how synthetic textiles are produced and recycled.
Whether enzyme-based recycling can deliver at industrial scale will be closely watched as the industry continues its transition toward circular material systems.
