The European Environmental Citizens’ Organisation for Standardisation (ECOS) is urging the European Union to strengthen the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) for textiles, warning that the current framework relies too heavily on consumer information while placing insufficient obligations on manufacturers.
During a recent webinar, ECOS experts outlined their recommendations for the forthcoming textile delegated act, arguing that mandatory ecodesign requirements must play a central role in making the fashion industry more sustainable.
ESPR to Transform Textile Product Design
The ESPR is one of the European Commission’s flagship sustainability initiatives and will introduce mandatory ecodesign requirements for textile products placed on the EU market.
A key feature of the regulation is the Digital Product Passport (DPP), which will provide detailed product information through QR codes or RFID technology. The passport is expected to include data on recycled content, durability, repair instructions, environmental performance and regulatory compliance, improving transparency throughout global textile supply chains.
According to ECOS, the DPP will benefit manufacturers, retailers, recyclers, second-hand operators and regulators by improving product traceability.
ECOS Warns Against Overreliance on Consumer Information
While welcoming the introduction of the DPP, ECOS believes the current proposals place too much responsibility on consumers rather than requiring manufacturers to improve product sustainability.
The organization argues that simply providing consumers with information about durability or recyclability will not solve the industry’s environmental challenges, particularly the growing impact of fast fashion and overproduction.
Instead, ECOS says stronger mandatory production standards are needed to drive meaningful change across the textile sector.
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NGO Calls for Mandatory Ecodesign Requirements
ECOS is recommending that the European Commission introduce stricter ecodesign requirements covering:
- Minimum durability standards based on physical testing
- Improved repairability and product disassembly
- Design rules that facilitate textile reuse and recycling
- Reduced elastane content to improve fiber recyclability
- Clear differentiation between post-consumer and post-industrial recycled content
- Greater use of recyclable materials
The organization believes these measures would significantly improve product longevity while supporting the development of a circular textile economy.
Stronger Chemical Restrictions Needed
Another major concern raised by ECOS is the extensive use of chemicals throughout textile production.
According to the organization, more than 15,000 chemicals are used across the textile industry, including dyes, pigments and processing chemicals.
ECOS is calling for mandatory restrictions on hazardous substances—including PFAS—under the ESPR rather than relying solely on disclosure requirements. It also wants greater transparency regarding chemicals used throughout global supply chains.
Addressing Microplastic Pollution
ECOS also recommends introducing measures to reduce microfiber pollution from synthetic textiles.
Its proposals include:
- Industrial pre-washing of textile products
- Standardized microfiber shedding tests
- Maximum microfiber release thresholds
- Linking microfiber emissions to Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees
The organization believes these measures would help reduce microplastic pollution while encouraging manufacturers to develop lower-shedding textile products.
Global Impact on Textile Supply Chains
As many apparel products sold in Europe are manufactured outside the EU, ECOS expects the ESPR to have significant implications for global textile supply chains.
The organization says compliance requirements will increasingly be passed from brands to suppliers and emphasizes that sustainability responsibilities and costs should be shared fairly across the entire value chain.
With the textile delegated act still under development, ECOS is encouraging manufacturers, brands and other stakeholders to actively participate in the consultation process before the regulation is finalized.
