Iran’s fashion and apparel sector has long been searching for its professional place, yet a deep gap still remains between the expectations of designers and the approach of policymakers. Industry experts argue that what Iran needs today is not merely “regulation,” but the creation of a genuine fashion industry.
Siamak Nazemi, Secretary of the Iranian Association of Fashion and Textile Designers, stresses that the government must shift from a controlling role to a facilitating role. He notes:
“As long as critical issues such as freelance designers’ insurance, copyright laws, and economic incentives are not seriously addressed, sustainable growth will not be possible, and challenges will continue to pass from one manager to another.”
Key Challenges for Designers
One of the most urgent demands of Iranian designers is copyright protection. Without proper legislation, creative ideas and designs are easily copied, discouraging innovation. At the same time, most designers in Iran work as freelancers, lacking access to social insurance and benefits. Nazemi emphasizes the need for a transparent structure that would annually include a specific number of designers under social insurance coverage.
Beyond economics, cultural barriers also complicate the industry. The clothing choices of society — especially in major cities — often diverge from the frameworks envisioned by official policies. Designers are caught in a dilemma: Whose expectations should they design for?
From Control to Facilitation
According to Nazemi, direct interference in citizens’ clothing contradicts the very concept of fashion. Instead, he suggests that policymakers should focus on areas such as sustainable fashion, recycling, and economic incentives. For example, some developed countries have reduced taxes for clothing repair services or cut VAT on sustainable apparel to encourage responsible consumption.
“Fashion is dynamic and constantly changing,” he explains. “You cannot legislate people into wearing a limited set of styles for long periods. Such restrictive laws are bound to fail and can even damage the credibility of lawmakers.”
What Designers Expect
Iranian designers envision a body similar to the Italian Fashion Federation, where decision-makers understand the fashion industry and work to establish it as a professional sector. However, even the term “regulation committee” signals a mismatch with the aspirations of designers who are seeking industry-building rather than imposed frameworks.
Nazemi points out that this divergence was clearly visible in the 13th Fajr Fashion & Clothing Festival, where state-led management emphasized control, while designers demanded creativity and freedom to connect with society.
Risks of Migration and Downsizing
A concerning trend is the growing migration of young designers abroad, driven by the lack of professional opportunities in Iran. At the same time, the apparel industry faces economic strain. Reduced clothing sales in recent months have weakened liquidity, raising fears of downsizing and job losses.
Nazemi warns: “If electricity and gas cuts continue alongside economic pressures, the risk of large-scale layoffs in the apparel industry will increase.” He suggests measures such as tax relief, easier loan repayment terms, and specifically the removal of VAT on apparel to stimulate demand and support the domestic market.
Conclusion
Iran’s fashion and apparel sector stands at a crossroads. On one hand, there is enormous potential among young and creative designers. On the other, restrictive policies and a lack of structural support hinder progress.
For Iran to have a voice in the global fashion scene, it must move beyond state control and pave the way for a vibrant, creative, and community-driven fashion industry.
