A major advancement from the University of Zagreb’s Faculty of Textile Technology may transform hemp from a niche fiber into a viable, scalable material for mainstream textile production. Published in the journal Cellulose, the research shows that hemp by-products can be processed using a combined mechanical-chemical “cottonization” method, allowing the fibers to be blended with cotton and spun on conventional open-end rotor systems.
This innovation overcomes a longstanding barrier in textile manufacturing—hemp’s coarse texture and high lignin content have historically made it incompatible with standard cotton spinning equipment. But with peroxide-based treatments and mechanical refining, researchers converted post-extraction hemp waste into short, soft, stable fibers capable of producing yarns that meet commercial strength and processing standards.
A New Era for Bast Fibers in Mass Market Textiles
“This is a bridge-building study,” said Joseph Carringer, CEO of Canna Markets Group. “It connects hemp’s raw biomass with global textile infrastructure, without requiring new capital-intensive processing lines.”
Typically, bast fibers like flax and traditional hemp rely on specialized wet spinning machinery, making them cost-prohibitive and geographically constrained. This cotton-compatible method opens the door for hemp to enter high-volume applications—ranging from apparel to home textiles—using existing global infrastructure.
For mills, this could mean introducing hemp into supply chains without major retrofitting. For hemp growers and processors, it presents an opportunity to monetize fiber waste—long considered a low-value by-product of cannabinoid and seed oil extraction.
The Path to Scalable Sustainability
Cottonized hemp represents an industrially realistic alternative that can lower water use, reduce pesticide reliance, and support circular material strategies—without sacrificing performance or scale.
The new study supports sustainable sourcing by enabling hemp to mimic cotton’s handling properties, making it easier to blend with conventional or recycled materials. It aligns with a growing push among global brands for scalable, eco-friendly fibers that integrate into existing manufacturing systems.
Remaining Challenges
Despite the breakthrough, challenges remain. Scaling lignin removal economically, achieving uniform fiber quality, and improving the strength of pure hemp yarns will be key for widespread adoption.
Still, this research marks a major milestone. By transforming hemp waste into a viable fiber for modern spinning lines, it pushes hemp one step closer to becoming a core material in the future of sustainable textiles.
