Europe’s textile and apparel companies have joined forces to demand “immediate and urgent measures” from the European Commission to curb the rise of ultra-fast fashion platforms such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress.
In a joint letter seen by AFP, industry federations across Europe—including Euratex (the European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and national associations from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Switzerland, Belgium, and Portugal—warned that the EU can no longer afford to wait years for legislative reforms while local businesses are crushed under the weight of unfair competition.
Call for Customs and Legal Reforms
The letter recalls that in 2024 alone, 4.5 billion parcels entered the EU from third-country e-commerce giants. These shipments, often priced below €150 and therefore exempt from customs duties, are accused of fueling:
- A surge in textile waste
- Unfair price competition against EU manufacturers
- Widespread environmental damage
- Labor rights abuses in supply chains
The federations insist that reforms to the EU Customs Code must be implemented “without delay”—particularly the removal of the €150 customs exemption that disproportionately benefits Chinese e-commerce platforms. They also urge the Commission to accelerate ongoing investigations and apply the strongest possible sanctions where violations are confirmed.
Other proposals include:
- Imposing fees on small parcels
- Launching a formal dialogue with Chinese authorities
- Making it mandatory for platforms to appoint legal representatives in the EU to ensure accountability
Industry Unity for the First Time
“This is the first time European federations have agreed to speak with one voice,” said Pierre-François Le Louët, Co-President of UFIMH, adding that the initiative marks a turning point in industry advocacy.
Olivier Ducatillion, President of UIT, described the joint letter as the start of “concrete action, without waiting for the EU’s notoriously slow decision-making processes.”
Euratex President Mario Jorge Machado emphasized that while current investigations and fines are necessary, they remain insufficient: “The EU has both the means and the duty to act now.”
Mounting Political Pressure
The move comes after the French government, at the end of August, also pressed the European Commission to be given new powers to blacklist online platforms found in breach of EU regulations—explicitly targeting Shein.
The letter will be officially signed during the Première Vision trade fair in Paris and subsequently transmitted to the European Commission.
As ultra-fast fashion platforms continue to expand aggressively across Europe, the textile and apparel sector is making clear that the time for incremental steps has passed. The demand is now for swift, structural reforms to level the playing field and protect both European industry and consumers
