A recent study tracking the flow of used clothing from Sweden to Kenya challenges widespread claims that second-hand clothing exports constitute waste dumping. Conducted by Humana Lithuania in collaboration with the IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute, the report underscores the economic and environmental value of global textile reuse.
Titled “From Collection of Used Clothes in Sweden to Reuse in Kenya,” the study finds that high import duties in Kenya—approximately €0.62 per kilogram on mitumba (the local term for second-hand clothing)—make it economically irrational to export unusable textiles. Rather than being discarded, most imported garments are actively reused, contributing to local employment and entrepreneurship.
“This value chain for reuse operates efficiently and ensures that garments which cannot be sold on the second-hand market within Europe are instead given an extended life elsewhere,” said Amanda Martvall, textile expert at IVL and co-author of the report.
Sweden’s New Textile Collection Rules Raise Concerns
The research comes in the wake of Sweden’s January 2025 mandate for separate household textile collection, which has increased the volume of collected textiles—but also decreased the proportion suitable for reuse. Collectors warn of growing strain on the existing reuse infrastructure.
“The new rules are placing logistical and financial strain on our operations,” said Cristofer Ståhlgren, logistics and sales manager at Human Bridge. “If we’re serious about circularity, we must protect and strengthen the existing reuse infrastructure.”
In 2024, Humana Lithuania sorted 38,000 tonnes of second-hand textiles—11,000 tonnes of which originated from Sweden. Of this, 76% were reused, 16% recycled, and 8% discarded. The sorting process involves more than 400 quality-based categories, tailored to market needs.
Organisations like Baltic Textile Trading and Think Twice are also highlighted for their effective resale networks and adaptive pricing strategies, which help optimise garment reuse.
Reuse vs. Fast Fashion
The study contrasts the efficiency of the reuse value chain with the negative impact of ultra-fast fashion trends, which continue to accelerate global textile consumption.
“This is where fundamental change is urgently needed,” said Martvall.
Looking ahead, Humana Lithuania CEO Örjan Österdal emphasized the critical role of global reuse in shaping a sustainable, circular textile economy.
“It’s crucial to recognise that global clothing reuse, built on quality exports, is a key part of the solution,” he noted, particularly as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes come into effect.
