As textile waste surges worldwide, African nations and environmental advocates unite in a bold call for change.
As the world commemorates the International Day of Zero Waste 2025, environmental advocacy groups across Africa are raising alarm bells about the growing crisis of textile waste on the continent. Organizations such as the Global Alliance for Incinerator Alternatives (GAIA) Africa and the Green Africa Youth Organisation (GAYO) are calling for immediate global action to address the environmental and economic devastation caused by the uncontrolled dumping of used clothing in African countries.
Fast Fashion’s Overflowing Impact
With the theme “Towards Zero Waste in Fashion and Textiles,” this year’s observance sheds light on one of the most urgent yet overlooked aspects of the waste crisis: fashion waste. The global fashion industry currently generates an estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, much of which ends up in landfills or is exported under the guise of second-hand donations.
In Ghana’s Kantamanto Market, one of the world’s largest second-hand clothing hubs, around 15 million garments are received each week. While many of these items are meant for resale, the poor quality of much of the clothing renders it unsellable. The result is a rising tide of textile waste that overflows into landfills, clogs drainage systems, and pollutes coastal cities like Accra.
“Africa refuses to be at the receiving end of textile waste, especially from the West,” says Jacob Johnson Attakpah, Project Manager for GAYO’s Zero Waste Cities Program. “The fashion industry must embrace circular design, responsible sourcing, and innovative recycling.”
Environmental and Economic Fallout
The consequences of this waste crisis are multi-dimensional. In Accra, mountains of dumped garments are now common in waste sites like Agbogbloshie, while waves that once brought seashells to Ghana’s shores now wash up heaps of discarded clothing.
The environmental damage extends to blocked sewage systems, increased flooding, and coastal pollution.
Beyond environmental harm, the crisis threatens Africa’s local textile industry. The constant flow of cheap, low-quality clothing reduces demand for locally made products, pushing many artisans and manufacturers out of business.
A Global Trade Problem
Used clothing exports are dominated by wealthy nations. In 2023, the top exporters of second-hand textiles were:
- United States – $1.06 billion
- China – $681 million
- Germany – $338 million
- United Kingdom – $327 million
Much of this ends up in African markets, burdening local waste management systems. Activists like Nirere Sadrach, founder of Uganda’s End Plastic Pollution (EPP), call this phenomenon “waste colonialism.”
“This is not charity; it’s a dumping strategy. Producers in the Global North must take responsibility for the full lifecycle of their products,” Sadrach emphasized.
Calls for Systemic Reform
GAIA Africa and its partners are calling on African governments, international agencies, and fashion brands to implement several key interventions:
- Ban Unmanageable Textile Waste Imports: Prohibit the import of second-hand clothing that cannot be reused or recycled.
- Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Require brands to be accountable for the waste they create and offer sustainable end-of-life solutions.
- Support for Local Industry: Invest in circular economies and sustainable textile manufacturing across Africa.
Raise Consumer Awareness: Encourage shifts in consumer behavior towards sustainable and ethically made fashion.
“Africa cannot become a dumping ground for fast fashion’s waste,” says Desmond Alugnoa, Program Manager at GAIA Africa. “We demand urgent policy action to protect our ecosystems and economies.”
A Global Responsibility
While some grassroots organizations are innovating—turning textile waste into useful products like laptop stands and speaker shells—the scale of the crisis demands more than localized solutions. The fight against fashion waste is not just Africa’s battle; it’s a call to rethink global consumption, production, and responsibility.
As the International Day of Zero Waste draws attention to the fashion industry’s hidden costs, Africa is leading the charge against an unsustainable system. The time to act is now—before the continent is buried in another generation’s forgotten garments
