As concerns mount over the environmental cost of fashion, small- and medium-sized clothing manufacturers in countries like South Africa and Tunisia are leading the way in adopting sustainable practices, thanks in part to support from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP).
In Cape Town, South African outdoor apparel retailer Cape Union Mart is producing nearly 190,000 puffer jackets a year. In 2021, the company partnered with UNEP to assess its environmental impact through a life cycle assessment. The results revealed that over 80% of a jacket’s environmental footprint came from the fabric itself. In response, the company shifted to sourcing materials only from suppliers meeting strict environmental standards.
“Customers are definitely looking for more sustainable products,” said Michelle Goddard, Pre-Production Manager at Cape Union Mart. “But more than that, business as usual is no longer an option.”
This collaboration is part of InTex—UNEP’s Innovative Business Practices and Economic Models in the Textile Value Chain initiative—launched in 2020 and funded by the European Union and Denmark. Targeting textile producers in India, Indonesia, Kenya, South Africa, and Tunisia, the programme aims to drive a shift from traditional, linear production models toward circularity, where garments are designed to be durable, reusable, and recyclable.
In Tunisia, the Gonser Group, a major apparel supplier to European brands, partnered with UNEP to track resource use in its denim factory near Tunis. Producing 600,000 garments annually, the company has since introduced an energy management platform to monitor water, steam, and gas usage in real time. Plans are underway to install 300 kilowatts of rooftop solar panels and an automated chemical dosing system—initiatives expected to significantly cut electricity and chemical consumption.
“We need to reduce our environmental footprint if we’re going to leave a better world for future generations,” said Bilel Ben Miled, Head of Sustainability at Gonser Group. The company already recycles up to 90% of its water and ensures over 90% of its chemicals meet internationally recognized sustainability standards.
With rising environmental regulations—particularly in the European Union—sustainability is becoming not only a moral imperative but a competitive necessity. “Brands are so engaged now when it comes to the environment,” Ben Miled noted. “If we want to continue our business and expand our markets, we need to invest in sustainability.”
UNEP’s Elisa Tonda, Chief of the Resources and Markets branch, agrees. “By considering sustainability and circularity in their procurement criteria, international brands can influence changes across the entire supply chain.”
Since its inception, InTex has helped 32 SMEs develop environmental roadmaps and trained over 230 company representatives in circular business practices. The programme is now expanding in India and Indonesia, with plans to support 60 additional businesses and improve their access to green financing.
Recognized by the European Union, InTex is proving that sustainability and profitability can go hand in hand, especially for the small businesses driving global garment production.
