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Textile Industry’s ‘Comeback’: Reviving Nigeria’s Textile Without Cotton

Nigeria’s Textile Industry: A Shadow of Its Past

In the 1980s, Nigeria’s textile industry was a powerhouse—employing over 750,000 workers and contributing 25% of GDP. Today, the sector lies in ruins. More than 500,000 jobs have disappeared, and cotton production has collapsed, leaving factories silent across Kaduna, Kano, and beyond.

Failed Promises of Revival

Efforts to revive the sector have been ongoing for decades. In 2009, the federal government launched the ₦100 billion Cotton, Textile and Garment (CTG) Fund, managed by the Bank of Industry. Sixteen years later, the results remain negligible—factories remain closed, and cotton output continues to decline.

In April 2025, the National Economic Council (NEC), led by Vice President Kashim Shettima, approved the creation of a Cotton, Textile and Garment Development Board. The initiative aims to boost agribusiness, expand the textile sector, and generate up to $90 billion in economic value by 2035.

Cotton Collapse: The Weakest Link

The textile revival is impossible without cotton, yet production has fallen from 300,000 tonnes in the 1980s to 15,000 tonnes today.

  • Farmers: Numbers have dropped from 620,000 to barely 100,000.
  • Seeds: Contaminated and poor-quality seeds limit yields.
  • Yields: Average productivity declined to 500–600 kg per hectare, compared to 1.5–2 tonnes in the past.
  • Insecurity: Farmers are abandoning cotton fields due to fear of bandit attacks.

As Ibrahim Mu’azu of Funtua Textiles observed:

“Travelling from Funtua to Zamfara, you won’t find a single cotton farm. They’ve all turned to soybeans.”

Kaduna and Kano: Factories in Ruins

Once bustling with activity, Kaduna and Kano have become graveyards of textile dreams.

  • In Kaduna, 11 textile mills once employed over 50,000 workers. Today, only Chellco Industries survives with fewer than 600 staff.
  • In Kano, legendary mills such as Gaskiya Textile and Universal Textile are gone. Cheap imports, high energy costs, and cotton shortages strangled their existence.

Ex-workers recall how entire communities once thrived around textile wages. Now, many live in poverty, with hundreds dying without gratuities.

Islands of Hope: Adamawa and Gombe

Despite nationwide decline, regions like Adamawa and Gombe still offer potential.

  • Adamawa: Known for fertile soils and high-quality cotton, but lacks government investment. Farmers demand tractors and improved seedlings to scale production.
  • Gombe: Farmers remain optimistic after input support through partnerships with Chad and Cameroon. Cotton prices have risen to ₦750,000 per tonne, encouraging renewed interest.

With four ginneries, Gombe could reignite textile production if government intervention is sustained.

Government Strategy: A Second Chance?

The new Cotton, Textile and Garment Development Board is funded through a textile import levy and aims to revive Nigeria’s textile ecosystem. Vice President Shettima stated:

“Nigeria is a nation where cotton can thrive in 34 states, yet our production remains a fraction of its potential. This is not just an economic imbalance—it is an invitation to act.”

The government promises not only regulation but also reindustrialisation and job creation. Minister John Enoh has begun touring key textile hubs, signalling renewed focus on the sector.

Expert Opinions: The Way Forward

Industry leaders stress that revival must go beyond one-off interventions.

  • Dr. Isma’il Anchau (Kaduna Polytechnic): Advocates for public-private partnerships (PPPs) to attract investment and revive cotton farming.
  • NACOTAN President, Anibe Achimugu: Emphasises private-sector driven reforms to meet global CTG challenges.
  • Emir of Kano, Muhammadu Sanusi II: Warns that without government support against smuggling and poor infrastructure, investors will remain discouraged.

Conclusion: Revival or Rhetoric?

Nigeria’s textile sector stands at a crossroads. The government’s renewed focus and new development board raise hopes, but without urgent investment in quality cotton seeds, farmer support, improved security, and fair market policies, the industry risks another cycle of failed promises.

The sector’s revival is not just about fabrics—it is about jobs, community survival, and national pride. With deliberate reforms and strong partnerships, Nigeria could once again emerge as a textile powerhouse in Africa.

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