The global Fast Fashion industry saw its greenhouse gas emissions rise by 7.5% in 2023—the sharpest annual increase since 2019—driven primarily by the growing use of fossil fuel-derived polyester, according to a new report from the Apparel Impact Institute (AII).
The report, compiled by a coalition of fashion retailers, manufacturers, and industry associations, revealed a significant jump from the 1.78% increase recorded in 2022. This marks the first major spike in emissions since AII began tracking the data, with prior years showing only modest growth or slight declines.
Polyester, now the most-used fibre in global fashion production, accounted for 57% of total fibre consumption in 2023. Cotton followed at 20%, and man-made cellulosic fibres such as viscose made up just 6%. The report attributes the emissions growth largely to increased fibre consumption, particularly of synthetic materials.
The expansion of ultra fast fashion, led by online platforms such as Shein, also plays a key role in the sector’s rising carbon footprint, the study notes.
Projections indicate that current emissions trajectories put the industry far off course from achieving net-zero goals by 2050. To align with a 1.5°C pathway by 2030, the sector would need to slash emissions by 45% within the next five years.
While some brands are pursuing sustainability measures, the report cites a critical lack of action, investment, and scale. Many manufacturers lack the capital to implement energy-saving technologies or switch to renewable energy sources. Coal remains a dominant energy source for textile processing and dyeing due to the high costs and limited availability of alternatives.
The report also highlights a troubling drop in the production of recycled polyester in 2023 compared to the previous year, further exacerbating the sustainability challenge.
The AII urges fashion brands to finance their suppliers’ decarbonisation efforts, adopt low-carbon procurement strategies, and support transparency through public emissions tracking. It also calls on financial institutions and philanthropic organizations to bridge the financing gap via blended capital solutions and loan guarantees.
Without immediate and coordinated action, the fashion industry risks falling dangerously short of its climate commitments, the report warns.
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