As the global shift towards sustainability gathers momentum, South Africa’s fashion and textiles industry still lacks a formal Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) framework. But how would mandatory EPR work in this complex sector? That was the central question posed at the 2025 Africa Textile Talks, hosted by Twyg and Imiloa Collective in Cape Town.
The panel, led by circular economy expert Kirsten Barnes, featured a diverse group of industry professionals including Quinton Williams, Junaid Francis, Feroz Koor, and Zaheer Patel—each offering unique insights from policy, producer, and brand perspectives.
From Voluntary to Mandatory EPR: Lessons from Packaging
Kicking off the discussion, Quinton Williams, a sustainability consultant, mapped the journey from voluntary to mandatory EPR based on South Africa’s packaging sector. He emphasized that legal mandates improved participation and accountability, with clearer targets and better reporting structures. These, in turn, enhanced data integrity and brought visibility to the informal and SME sectors of the value chain.
Junaid Francis, stakeholder relations manager at Petco, shared the producer responsibility organisation (PRO) perspective, noting the benefits of regulation—like better traceability and inclusion—but also outlined the challenges. Chief among them was regulatory uncertainty, including last-minute amendments and overly prescriptive policies. This, he said, has fostered a competitive, rather than collaborative, environment among PROs, undermining the collective mission.
Complexity from the Brand Owner’s View
From the retail side, Feroz Koor of Woolworths and Zaheer Patel from Pick n Pay tackled the operational hurdles of implementing EPR in fashion and textiles. They raised concerns about high recycling costs, difficulties managing mixed materials, and ambiguous legal definitions—especially around the term “producer.”
Koor stressed that without clarity on who exactly is liable for EPR fees—the brand owner, the filler, or the packaging manufacturer—the framework risks becoming unworkable. Patel illustrated the intricacy of the supply chain using a simple garment like a bra, which may contain metal, plastic, and fabric components sourced from different countries, adding layers of logistical and regulatory complexity.
A Call for Industry Participation
Closing the session, Barnes urged all stakeholders, from large corporations to small designers, to actively participate in shaping the future of EPR for textiles.
“Be part of the design now. We need every voice at the table if we want to change the system,” she emphasized.
While EPR is not yet mandated for fashion and textiles in South Africa, initiatives like GreenCape, the SA Plastics Pact, and the Retail–CTFL Master Plan 2030 are already laying the groundwork.
The panel made it clear: successful implementation of EPR in the textile sector will require clarity, cooperation, and data-driven strategies—but above all, it will require shared responsibility and co-creation across the entire value chain.
