In recent years, the world has become increasingly aware of the environmental impact of textile waste and the role that fast fashion plays in accelerating this crisis. One major development is the United Nations Environment Programme’s (UNEP) project titled “Circularity and Trade in Used Textiles”, which aims to create a new global framework for trade and circularity in second-hand garments.
However, this project has triggered strong objections from several organizations in Africa and Asia — particularly in Ghana, Kenya, Togo, and Pakistan. These industry groups and NGOs have formally challenged UNEP’s methodology and the accuracy of the data being used, claiming that it may lead to biased regulations favoring fast-fashion giants rather than protecting local economies.
The dispute goes far beyond data — it reveals a deeper issue:
Who controls the narrative of “sustainability” in the global textile industry?
Africa Challenges UNEP: “Data Must Be Transparent — and Independent.”
An open letter (supported by experts from Europe, Asia, Africa, and the Americas) openly questions the reliability of UNEP’s findings. African textile associations argue that the UNEP project relies on “unverified data” that does not reflect the reality on the ground.
Their concern is straightforward:
Bad data = bad policies.
These organizations highlight that the distinction between reusable garments and textile waste is critical. Africa has a thriving second-hand market that supports millions of families — from sellers in Ghana’s Kantamanto Market to small sorters and traders across East Africa. Labeling all imported clothing as “waste” could justify restricting imports and destroying livelihoods, benefiting only major global fashion corporations.
Key objections from African organizations include:
- UNEP’s research partners include NGOs allegedly funded by fast-fashion brands, raising concerns about conflicts of interest.
- Consultations were reportedly done too quickly, without enough input from local trade associations.
- The data used to estimate second-hand textile flows into African countries has not been transparently verified.
Industry leaders say the consultation process should reflect objectivity and fairness — values expected from a UN-led initiative.
Jeffren Boakye Abrokwah, representing traders in Ghana’s second-hand textile markets, summarized it bluntly:
“We expected neutrality. We did not see it.”
Is Fast Fashion Influencing Sustainability Policies?
The controversy deepens with accusations that certain organizations involved in the UNEP project are directly funded by fast-fashion corporations. Critics argue that these brands benefit from a narrative that shifts responsibility away from overproduction — the true source of the crisis — and instead blames developing nations.
African organizations warn that:
- The UNEP report risks framing African countries as “global waste dumps.”
- The findings may justify policy reforms that restrict second-hand imports rather than pressuring fashion brands to reduce production.
Alan Wheeler of the UK Textile Recycling Association points to a bigger question:
Is sustainability being shaped by science — or by fast-fashion lobbying?
Global Context: When Second-Hand Becomes Part of the Waste Problem
The debate comes at a time when the used textile market is undergoing dramatic shifts:
| Region | Trend |
| Africa | Second-hand imports increasing — but waste proportion rising |
| Asia | Exporting more used garments to Africa, lowering quality |
| Europe/US | Clothing production doubled in 15 years; collection systems at full capacity |
| Sweden | Allowed incineration of textile waste due to storage overflow |
| France | Collectors went on strike over collapsing recycling economics |
UNEP estimates that $500 billion worth of textiles are lost every year due to underuse and non-recycling. Around 95% of discarded textiles could be reused or recycled — yet most of them are dumped or burned.
The textile industry doesn’t have a waste problem.
It has an overproduction problem.
Conclusion
The UNEP project has the potential to be transformational. But without reliable data and fair stakeholder participation, it risks reinforcing the dominance of fast-fashion producers rather than supporting a truly circular textile economy.
Africa is not asking to avoid responsibility — it is demanding a seat at the table.
Circularity cannot be designed from conference rooms in Europe.
It must include input from the markets where second-hand goods actually flow.
✅ We Want to Hear From You
At Kohan Textile Journal, we believe the future of sustainability lies in open dialogue and collaboration.
➡️ What is your opinion on the UNEP project and the controversy surrounding textile circularity?
➡️ Should developing countries be decision-makers — not just recipients — in sustainability policies?
Share your thoughts in the comments and join the technical discussion with our global textile community.
