Africa and Sustainable Textile Futures – From Secondhand Crisis to Smart Recycling

Written by: Behnam Ghasemi – editore in chief – kohan textile journal

Rethinking the Model: From Consumer to Producer

For decades, Africa has been the final destination for millions of tons of secondhand clothing from Europe, North America, and Asia. These discarded clothes—often low in quality—have flooded African markets, crippling local industries and carrying deep social and cultural costs.

However, change is underway. A new narrative is emerging—Africa no longer wants to be the dumping ground for the fashion world. Instead, it wants to become a responsible, value-creating producer of textiles and garments.

According to WTO data, over 1.7 million tons of secondhand clothing were imported into Africa in 2023. But many governments are now acting. Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania have introduced bans or heavy restrictions on these imports. Entrepreneurs, cooperatives, and youth-led startups are also advocating for stronger local manufacturing.

Sustainability Over Cheap and Dirty Growth

Africa’s industrial future must be rooted in sustainability—not just cheap labor and low-cost exports. Sustainable growth means responsible production: energy- and water-efficient processes, textile recycling, use of natural dyes, and adoption of low-impact machinery.

Fortunately, a new generation of African entrepreneurs is embracing this vision. These businesses aren’t just serving local markets—they’re also aiming for export, especially to conscious consumers in Europe and North America.

To succeed, African producers need more than vision. They need tools, partnerships, and knowledge—especially in sustainable dyeing, waterless finishing, fiber recycling, and digital innovation.

Abel Kamau, Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM) Sectors Executive said: “Africa—and Kenya in particular—is at the forefront of a remarkable transformation within the global textile and apparel industry. Our continent possesses all the essential elements for sustainable growth: abundant natural resources like cotton, a young and skilled workforce, and strategic geographic access to major global markets. By embracing innovation, sustainability, and digital transformation, Kenya and the broader African region have the potential to redefine their roles in global textiles, creating jobs, driving economic prosperity, and establishing a resilient industrial future.”

Mr. Samba Dia, Supply Chain and Logistics Manager at DOMITEXKA said: “Senegal’s textile industry is experiencing a vibrant revival, driven by innovation, sustainability, and a renewed commitment to local production. At DOMITEXKA, our goal is to build a robust, fully integrated textile value chain—spanning from cotton cultivation to advanced digital textile printing. With our investments in cutting-edge technology, particularly digital printing, we are not only enhancing production efficiency and quality but also reducing environmental impact. Senegal and Africa as a whole have immense potential to become significant global textile hubs, provided we focus strategically on local resources, sustainable practices, and modernizing infrastructure.”

Smart Recycling: A Missed but Promising Opportunity

Africa holds untapped potential in textile recycling. Instead of burning or burying old clothes, countries can invest in closed-loop recycling systems—turning used textiles into new fibers, insulation, industrial materials, or even fashion-forward garments.

North African countries like Morocco and Tunisia have launched pilot projects in collaboration with European brands. In West Africa, countries like Ghana and Nigeria are exploring waste-to-value solutions in garment hubs.

One of the leading countries in Africa’s textile market is Tunisia, which is rapidly establishing itself as a key player in sustainable textile manufacturing, particularly through recycled cotton sourcing. Leveraging its strategic proximity to European markets, a robust industrial infrastructure featuring over 1,400 textile companies, and preferential trade agreements, Tunisia offers significant competitive advantages. With a marked increase in exports of recycled cotton apparel—from just 1.1% in 2022 to over 10.2% by 2024—the country is effectively aligning with global sustainability standards. Investments in certifications like GRS and RCS, along with continued enhancements in local recycling infrastructure and innovation in fiber quality, position Tunisia as a forward-looking and reliable sourcing hub for sustainable fashion.

Ms. Natalie Gautier, Marketing Manager at SOFRIP Tunisia said: “At SOFRIP, we firmly believe that the future of Africa’s textile industry lies in sustainability and circular economy practices. Tunisia is leading this transformation by adopting innovative textile recycling processes that turn textile waste into valuable resources. Our extensive experience and ISO-certified quality management place us in a unique position to provide sustainable solutions that protect the environment while meeting global market demands. By continuing to invest in advanced recycling technologies and eco-friendly production, Tunisia can become a major global player in sustainable textile manufacturing.”

But this transition requires modern recycling machines, chemical processing systems, sorting tech, and skilled operators—most of which are currently lacking or outdated.

Where Technology and Opportunity Meet

Access to green technologies, sustainable chemicals, and recycling-focused textile machinery is essential. African entrepreneurs, public institutions, and cooperatives need to explore how to build green supply chains with local value addition.

This is why platforms like ITMA Asia in Singapore are so critical. These exhibitions bring together innovators in textile machinery, automation, and sustainable materials from around the world.

ITMA Asia is not just about showcasing products—it’s where the future of clean, circular textile manufacturing is being shaped. For African stakeholders, it offers a direct gateway to learn, connect, and grow.

A Sustainable Future Begins Now

Africa has a once-in-a-generation opportunity to build a textile industry that is clean, circular, and competitive. The world is watching. Brands want to partner. Investors are ready. The only question is: who will take the first step?

Leaders who invest today in recycling infrastructure, sustainable machinery, and international cooperation will shape not just Africa’s textile industry—but its entire industrial future.

This year, ITMA Asia + CITME Singapore 2025 has launched a special initiative to attract African visitors, recognizing the critical role face-to-face interaction plays in driving investment and technology transfer.

Developing the textile industry across Africa requires exposure to cutting-edge innovations and global partnerships. ITMA Asia + CITME Singapore 2025 provides the ideal platform for African textile professionals and investors to explore the latest machinery, sustainable solutions, and automation technologies from leading manufacturers worldwide.

If you are interested in learning more about the exclusive benefits and tailored facilities available for African visitors, register now and take the first step toward transforming your textile business.

Register Now

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About Author: Behnam Ghasemi is a textile engineer and Editor-in-Chief of Kohan Textile Journal, covering the Middle East, Africa, and Turkey. With 17+ years in textile media, he offers expert insight into regional and global trends. A trilingual industry advocate, he promotes investment in emerging textile markets.